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An Ortigia day around the pupi
A day in Syracuse built around the puppet show: the Greek theatre and Ear of Dionysius in the morning, Ortigia's squares and spring, then pupi or street food.
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Spend the morning in the Neapolis archaeological park, with the Greek theatre and the cave called the Ear of Dionysius, when the stone is still cool. Cross to Ortigia for the Piazza del Duomo, the Temple of Apollo and the Fountain of Arethusa. Then give the evening to the pupi theatre, or to a street-food walk, depending on the showtime and your appetite.
Morning: the Neapolis park
The Neapolis park holds ancient Syracuse at its grandest. The Greek theatre, on the slopes of the Temenite hill, was first built in the 5th century BC, rebuilt in the 3rd century BC and renovated again under the Romans, and the playwright Aeschylus staged a tragedy in Syracuse. The guided tour on this site's cards takes about two hours, with park entry included, through the old stone quarries, the Ear of Dionysius, the Greek theatre and the Roman amphitheatre. The guiding can be in English and Italian at once.
The Ear of Dionysius
The Ear of Dionysius is a limestone cave about 23 metres high that runs about 65 metres into the cliff, probably cut as part of an old quarry. Its shape gives it striking acoustics, so even a small sound fills the space. The name comes from the painter Caravaggio, who visited in 1608, and from a legend that the tyrant Dionysius I used the cave to eavesdrop on prisoners. You can still hear the echo inside.
Midday: into Ortigia
Cross one of the two bridges into Ortigia and slow down. The Piazza del Duomo is the island's central square; its cathedral was built on the site of a Greek temple to Athena and mixes Norman, Gothic and Baroque work. The Temple of Apollo is one of Sicily's oldest Doric temples. On the seafront, the Fountain of Arethusa is a freshwater spring tied to the myth of the nymph Arethusa, and one of the few places in Europe where papyrus grows.
Afternoon: the castle and the sea
At the tip of the island, the Castello Maniace was built between 1232 and 1240 for the Emperor Frederick II and is open to the public. It is named after the Byzantine general George Maniakes, who took the city in 1038. If you would rather see the coast from the water, the sunset cruise on this site sails along it, into sea caves, with a swim stop near the castle walls.
Read next: Puppets or a sunset cruise?
Evening: the pupi or a street-food walk
If the showtime suits, the puppet theatre fills roughly ninety minutes with knights, music and a visit behind the stage. If you would rather eat your way through the evening, the street-food walk on this site's cards lasts about three hours with a guide and no more than twelve people, tasting Sicilian street food at four or more stops, with water and one alcoholic drink, usually local wine. Tastings follow the season and the time of day. It is not suitable for anyone with limited mobility.
Putting it together
Showtimes at the pupi vary by season, so fix the theatre booking first, then shape the day to suit it. With a second day, the sunset cruise and the street-food walk can each have an evening of their own. If the show falls early, eat afterwards in Ortigia; if late, the street-food walk or a slow aperitif can come first. Keep the Neapolis park for the morning, while the light and temperature are kinder. Everything on the island itself is walkable, so the only real transfer of the day is the walk or ride between the park and Ortigia.
Read next: Puppets in Italian: worth it?
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